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Sunday, December 29, 2002

Best ingredients are good people



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Most people think I have a great job because I get to eat the best food. No, it's really wonderful because I get to meet the best people. Here are some of my favorite food people of 2002.

Bobby Wright and her daughter, Jamese, of Dayton. Small entrepreneurs with big dreams, these women make and market the family's all-purpose sauce, Mrs. Wright's Recipe. This year, the Cincinnati Reds began offering the spicy condiment at its concession stands, and most Greater Cincinnati Kroger stores began stocking it later. Who's next? Mrs. Wright will call you soon.

Julie Francis, chef-owner, Aioli, downtown. She left Cincinnati to learn to cook in New York and Santa Fe. Then she came home to open a small downtown restaurant that features creative Southwestern-influenced cuisine at incredible prices. If only all those folks who frequent the 'burb chain joints would just give Aioli a try.

Ray Hollmeyer, whose family has been growing peaches and heirloom apples in Green Township for 86 years. Mr. Hollmeyer is 81, and he still presses cider and patrols his orchards in a golf cart.

Mike and Mark Kroeger, Bob Lillis, Horace McDonell and the other vendors, customers and supporters of Findlay Market. For 150 years, these people and their ancestors have made Findlay one of the best city markets in the country. Now, if only more people who live here would shop there.

The May's Lick Asparagus Festival Committee. Don't tell these folks their little town near Maysville isn't the "asparagus capital of Kentucky.'' Hey, one day they could really grow tons of asparagus there. Until then, the Asparagus Festival is a fun and wonderful way to promote May's Lick in May.

Ray and Susy Garcia, Naum Moksin and Slava Shur, Dean Zaidan, Sylvia Yeboah, Harry Caswell and all the others who move to this country, sometimes struggle with our language, regulations and discrimination, and still make a living selling the foods from their homelands.

The Rev. Troy Beaugard and his wife, Bobbie, who own and operate Beaugard's Southern Bar "B' Que in Wilmington. These Arkansas transplants work all week (except for Wednesday night and Sunday) making and selling the best pulled pork, ribs and smoky chicken. Then the Beaugards spend much of the barbecue profits to support their small church and congregation in Wilmington.

Mert Corwin, Jim Burton, Buzz Volz, Ken Fisher, Mike Pinsky and Barry Pinsky. Just about every Wednesday night, these gentlemen take their friend, Bill Frase of Finneytown, to dinner. Mr. Frase has been fighting multiple sclerosis for more than a decade, but he still looks forward to eating out and hearing his buddies joke around the table. We all should hope for such loyal, thoughtful friends.

The Graeter family. When it seems most of the news emanating from Cincinnati stinks, the Graeters hold the banner high for the best premium ice cream in the land. And they're so darned cool about it. "Oprah endorsed our ice cream in front of millions on TV? Great. We didn't see the show. But we're ready for the thousands of extra mail orders.'' I love these guys.

David Falk, chef-owner, Boca, Northside. OK, the kid talks a lot. But he backs it up with simple, ingredient-driven, Italian-style food that could be served in Florence, Italy, or New York. And he's another homegrown chef that came home to roost. And crow.

Irene Hayes, self-published author of What's Cooking in Kentucky (Hayes Publishing; $19.95) and What's Cooking for the Holidays (Hayes; $21.95). This summer, she left her home near Pikeville to live near her daughters in Northern Kentucky. At 86, Mrs. Hayes is the authority on Kentucky home cooking. I asked her how to make butterscotch pie. From her wheelchair in the kitchen, she showed me.

Jean-Robert de Cavel, chef-owner, Jean-Robert at Pigall's, downtown. When just about everyone else in town is endorsing - or at least accepting - mediocrity (i.e., the Bengals, the Reds, City Council), he aspires to and achieves excellence. He has created a fabulous restaurant in a medium-sized Midwestern town he now calls home. We're fortunate to have him.

E-mail cmartin@enquirer.com.



2002 IN ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
Television: Cable steals the networks' show
Film: A sequel and a superhero fly high
Theater: A tough, eventful act to follow on stages
Popular Music: Rock rules, teen pop cools, King Records reigns
Classical Music: Great performances thrilled large and small crowds
Visual Art: Creative works, well-curated
ARTS
DEMALINE: Arts resolutions must be followed with hard work
Three win arts slogan contest
MOVIES
People pick their own film favorites
'Everyman' actor tries on 3 new roles
PEOPLE
Sundance calls Ohio filmmakers
Agency helps folks get off welfare, and stay off
Young candy man won't dispense with his PEZ containers
KENDRICK: Be nice to others; it's to your benefit
TASTE
MARTIN: Best ingredients are good people
Holidays harken high season for punch
Serve It This Week: Grapefruit
GET TO IT
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