Rochester Democrat and Chronicle

Nothing says, "I don't want to drink alone" like a punch bowl. Put one out, and thirsty people are bound to congregate.

Since Colonial times, punch has enjoyed a prominent place on the American party scene and has been an enduring sign of hospitality.

The 19th-century Boston merchant Harrison Gray Otis had a reputation for setting a 10-gallon tank on his stair landing every day, keeping visitors well-quaffed.

The historic vessel has yet to undergo a retro-hip reincarnation like that of the fondue pot. Nowadays, the perennial punch bowl is most often associated with proms, weddings and bridal and baby showers. The winter holidays are also high season for the punch bowl, when party throwers are thinking eggnog, wassail (ale or wine sweetened with sugar and flavored with spices), toddies, grogs and other festive concoctions.

Despite - or perhaps because of - the drink's old-fashioned appeal, cookbooks, cooking magazines and celebrity chefs such as the youthful, gap-toothed Brit Jamie Oliver of Food Network fame keep cranking out updated punch recipes. There are several at www.epicurious.com and www.foodtv.com.

In fact, finding a new punch recipe may be easier than finding a new punch bowl. Once a must-have on bridal registries, some retailers have discontinued selling them. Others simply don't have the selection of yore. Don't worry; Mom, Grandma or Aunt Lucy usually has a bowl lurking in the attic or basement.

For those who like punch but remain bowl-less, there are two other choices: rent from a party supply shop or improvise. If all else fails, there are always ceramic pitchers, ceramic slow-cooker inserts or crocks (especially good for hot punches) and even clean (and preferably new) fish bowls.

Pineapple Punch

1 ripe pineapple
6 to 8 ounces confectioners' sugar, depending on fruit's sweetness
2 cups apricot brandy
2 bottles (750 milliliters each) sparkling wine

Peel, core and finely chop the pineapple, place in a bowl, and stir in the sugar. Set aside, covered, in the refrigerator for at least one hour and up to 24 hours.
Pour the apricot brandy over the fruit and steep until needed. (The mixture will last approximately two weeks in the refrigerator.)
When ready to serve, place the pineapple mixture in a punch bowl and top with the sparkling wine. Stir thoroughly and serve well chilled in champagne glasses. Yields 10-12 drinks.
- From Nick Mautone, managing partner of Gramercy Tavern, New York

Punch tipsheet

A gallon of punch fills about 32 punch cups. Figure that a gallon will serve about 12 people.

A large block of ice is better than ice cubes because there is less dilution, and it is easier to work around a block with ladle. To keep punch from weakening, freeze some of the nonalcoholic liquids and use them as the ice.

If tea is an ingredient, make it strong by using additional tea leaves rather than by long steeping, which results in a bitter, tannic taste.

Because sugar is hard to dissolve in cold fruit juice, and even more so in liquid containing alcohol, keep sugar syrup on hand for adjusting sweetness.

Chill all ingredients beforehand. Then chill your bowl. If it is too big to put in the refrigerator, pack the bowl with crushed ice and let it stand long enough to get thoroughly cold. Empty the bowl, and put your punch ingredients in immediately.

Champagne or other sparkling wine and any carbonated liquid, such as soda, should be added last.