By Ed Westemeier
Enquirer contributor

If your New Year resolutions tend to crumble as quickly as mine, here's a bit of encouragement. Many of us resolve to lead a healthier lifestyle. But did you know this can include your favorite beverage?

I was asked recently about the availability of organic beer, so I took a fresh look at what we can buy in the Tristate. Happily, I found more organic beers on local shelves than ever. Here's a trend we can all applaud.

The word "organic" is especially popular these days. With all the talk about genetically modified foods, it's nice to find producers who value simplicity.

The desires of vegetarians and vegans are starting to be taken more seriously by marketers. Even the government recently issued a new set of guidelines for organic food products.

There's so much talk about them, you might think it was a new phenomenon. Yet I first wrote about organic beers in 1993, and they had already been on the market for 10 years, even longer in Europe.

Organic beers are, of course, brewed in exactly the same manner as ordinary beers. The difference is that they are made with one or more ingredients grown organically, with certification by an organization that sets guidelines. Unfortunately, organically grown barley and hops are both scarce and expensive, and the organic certification process can be so time-consuming and costly that most small breweries can't afford it.

There is obviously a market for organic beer, and I think enough people are willing to pay a higher price for a beverage that suits their lifestyle. Here are my impressions of a few locally available organic beers. Whether the organic concept appeals to you or not, these are good beers by any standards.

Samuel Smith's Organically Produced Lager Beer. This one wins the prize for Most Boring Beer Name, but its flavor is excellent. Look for a pleasantly grassy, malty aroma, with a full malt flavor. Somewhat peppery, with a hint of sweetness and a bit of corn, it has a medium gold color, derived from the unusual use of Vienna malt. This beer has won numerous European awards for organic products. It's completely suitable even for vegans, since, unlike some English beers, it's clarified by the use of Irish moss, a natural vegetable product. You may also find Samuel Smith's Organically Produced Ale. It's also good, but not nearly as impressive as the lager.

Jade. A corked, bottle-conditioned French "saison," or farmhouse ale. Jade boasts a big, fluffy head with lively carbonation. The first aroma is the woody note of the cork, followed by warming spices (cinnamon, allspice), with that certain "almost Belgian" characteristic that comes from the distinctive yeast. The flavor evidences an earthy character, full and extremely pleasant, with an excellent balance of soft malt and mild hop flavors. This has long been a favorite of mine.

Pinkus Muller. As far as I know, this lager was the first organic beer sold in America, about 20 years ago. A classic German pilsner, it boasts a pale straw color, fairly high carbonation, and a good level of bitterness.

With outstanding head retention, this beer has a light hop aroma overlaying a subdued malty note. The flavor exhibits both a malty sweetness and a delightful hoppiness, with the balance slightly to the malty side.

The high hop bitterness is a constant background, providing the overall character, with a roundness that is reminiscent of fresh Pilsner Urquell. It has a long finish, with the bitterness fading to a lingering hop taste.

One of the finest German pilsners available here, the "organic" label is a plus. There is also a Pinkus Muller Hefeweizen, which is a nice choice if you like that style.

You can find other organic beers if you look for them at better beer retailers, but these should get you started. Drink healthy in 2003.

Contact Ed Westemeier by e-mail: hopfen@malz.com