By Mary Sanker
Enquirer Contributor

Just off Redbank Expressway in Madisonville sits Salt of the Earth, in a front corner of an antiseptic-looking office building. It hardly seems the place for a gourmet food shop.

But step inside and doubt vanishes: Carefully chosen pantry ingredients stock painted wooden shelves, imported beers and wines line the walls and, past the tables and chairs for in-store dining, you'll find the food counter.

As you examine the day's selections of salads, side dishes and entrees, the desserts are smack dab in front, making it difficult to concentrate. I manage to avert my eyes from a layered chocolate cake long enough to order dinner.

Fresh salads with a bit of a twist are standouts. The blue cheese slaw ($5.99 per pound ) is good, as is the black bean salad with red onion, cilantro and feta ($4.99 per pound). Vegetarians will take interest in meat-free (but not cheese-free) entrees such as eggplant slices sandwiched around goat cheese ($4.95 each) and polenta ($4.95 each) layered with fresh mozzarella. Both are delicious, especially the eggplant dish.

As I'm deciding, another customer snags the last portion of salmon entrČe ($9.99 per pound), but meatloaf ($6.99 per pound) and pork loin ($8.50 per pound) are tempting.

The meatloaf is slightly spicy, but a little too finely textured for my taste. The pork was on the dry side when I reheated it at home.

Dessert awaits. I couldn't resist butterscotch pudding with a graham cracker crust and a dollop of whipped cream ($3). The applesauce cake ($3) is dense and not too sweet. Banana cream pie ($2.75) is too similar to the pudding for me to appreciate, although I like the chocolate cookie crust. I never did get to try that chocolate layer cake.

All desserts are made on premises, and many are created by Angela Columbus, former owner of Torta Bakery.

Salt of the Earth owners Debbie Johnson and Jim Jennings provide party trays and box lunches. They also sell cheese, crĖme fraiche, premium Plugra butter and sea salt.

Salt of the Earth Gourmet Food Co., 4760 Redbank Expressway, Madisonville; 272-3650. Open: 9 a.m.-6:30 p.m. Monday-Friday; 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday.