By Amy Simmons
Enquirer contributor

Sometimes big wines come with small names.

"Petite syrah," also spelled "petite sirah," is a perfect example of wine produced in small quantities that can offer a fairly robust experience. This wine is also a solid example of Rhone and Rhone-style wines, such as grenache, syrah, carignan and mourvedre, that have come into their own and are worth exploring.

You may recall from my last column, petite syrah is a grape grown primarily in California and used historically for blending to add color, tannin and depth to wines. Petite syrah is often confused with syrah, though it is made from a different grape, called durif. But the wines do share some similarities.

Unlike its California counterparts cabernet and merlot, petite syrah is produced by few vineyards. So you're unlikely to find more than a handful of styles. Look closely when shopping, or inquire with a member of the store staff. Wineries that do produce petite syrah tend to do so in limited amounts.

Petite syrah's calling card is its peppery, earthy style. Unlike some of its more noble cousins, petite syrah is often a little rough around the edges with tannins and spices. The grapes are grown mostly along the California inland areas of the Central Valley, Sonoma County and Monterey.

If you're interested in learning more about this lesser-known wine, start with some quality makers of petite syrah such as:

• Bogle Vineyards Petite Syrah 2000. At $9.99, this wine is good starter to the category as it can be enjoyed by itself but works nicely with food. Expect simple and somewhat earthy flavors.

• Vinum Cellars "PETS" Petite Syrah 2001. This mid-priced wine provided the most well-balanced tasting. Dense with more than a hint of berry, it makes a nice accompaniment to hearty food. The $13.99 price is also attractive, as is the donation the winery makes to its local animal shelter with every bottle purchased.

• Foppiano Vineyards Petite Syrah 2000 Sonoma County: At $21.99, the wine's price point is matched by its feel. The first sip rewards you with the quick realization this is a much earthier, heavier wine than the others. Its tannins allow it to pair well with food - even my chicken casserole. Plan to open the Foppiano a bit before serving.

Other notable producers include: David Bruce, Markham, Rosenblum, Fife and Ridge.

Enjoy!

Contact Amy Simmons by e-mail: asimmons@deskey.com or send questions and comments c/o the Enquirer, 312 Elm St., Cincinnati 45202.