By Chuck Martin
The Cincinnati Enquirer

They've lowered the blue, white and red French flag at La Petite Pierre in Madeira, a restaurant owned by the American daughters of a late French chef. America's war with Iraq has caused another battle at home, at La Petite Pierre and other unlikely fronts. The TV networks might call it: Target: French Wine and Food.

"I'm not even sure we want to play French music anymore,'' says Michelle Vollman, who owns the restaurant with sister Suzy DeYoung. Their father was Pierre Adrian, a chef at the Maisonette from 1956-1972.

"But I understand how people feel," Vollman says. "It's an anxious time."

Americans are anxious and a little angry, too. It all stems from the awkward mix of politics and food, like oil and vinegar that just won't blend.

The French government has been most vocal in its opposition to the U.S. invasion of Iraq, leading some Americans to call for a boycott of French products, even the refusal to use the word "french" when referring to "french fries" and "French toast." (Earlier this month, two Congressmen ordered U.S. House cafeterias to change the food names to "freedom fries" and "freedom toast.")

While many might consider taking "french" out of "fries" silly (66 percent, in fact, agree it's silly, according to a national Gallup Poll), a growing number here are taking the boycott of French goods seriously. The same March Gallup Poll shows nearly two-thirds of Americans express an "unfavorable" view of France.

More than anything, perhaps, the French are known for their wine and food. And now, some restaurant and shop owners are hearing anti-French comments from customers. A few are even seeing a decline in sales of French wine and cheese.

So far, at least, only those in the food and wine industry are feeling the effects of the de facto French boycott. Other French-related businesses in the Tristate, including French Country Road in Madeira, which handles French-made furniture, have been unaffected, owners say.

Nevertheless, restaurant owners, including the sisters at La Petite Pierre, have heard customers asking for American wines instead of French. At Piazza-Discepoli Wine Merchant stores in Madeira, College Hill and White Oak, more than two dozen customers during the past few weeks have declined to buy French wines.

"They will ask us to put together a mixed case of wine for them," says co-owner Guy Discepoli."And they will specifically ask us not to include any French wines."

Booing the bubbly

When she introduced a French champagne during a recent tasting at the Wine List in West Chester Township, a group of customers booed shop owner Toni Sander. After laughing a little about it, the tasters sipped the sparkling French wine. But no one bought it.

"Some people think this (not buying French wine) is their only recourse," says Sander, who says French wine sales have gone down this year at her store. "But I've also got some people who are looking for the 2000 Bordeaux. So not everyone feels the same way."

French wines continue to sell at Jungle Jim's Market in Fairfield, but sales of emmentaler, brie and other French cheeses are down since January, says director of development Phill Adams.

Evelyn Ignatow hasn't noticed a dip in sales of French cheese or wine at her Hyde Park Gourmet Food & Wine - and she's ready to debate any proponents of such a boycott.

Anti-French a hit with some

The man who has gotten the most attention with his anti-French stance is Jeff Ruby, owner of Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse, downtown, and four other restaurants in Greater Cincinnati. In late February, the often flamboyant Ruby announced he was not going to sell French wines or mineral water.

"I was just so mad, I was ready to take down my French doors at the Tropicana (in Newport)," he says. "France and Germany and Russia are all together on this. But you know, if it wasn't for the U.S., the French would be speaking German and the Germans would be speaking Russian."

He doesn't think his position has hurt him financially. In fact, Ruby says some customers have told him they've patronized his restaurants for his anti-French stand.

"Ruby hasn't poured any precious Bordeaux or Burgundy into the river. Nor has he removed cognac or French spirits from the bar.

"Who else makes cognac?" Ruby says. "I don't want to take too much away from the guests."

de Cavel

Ruby's friend, Jean-Robert de Cavel, who owns Jean-Robert at Pigall's, and perhaps the most visible French chef in town, is sensitive to the anti-French feelings.

His staff recommends American wines to customers who don't want to drink French. But the chef has changed nothing else.

"We can all enjoy the same dish, and still have different opinions," de Cavel says. "The French understand the sacrifices Americans made to help them in World War II. But the U.S. fought in that war partly so France could keep freedom, and that includes the right to have an opinion."

Supporting the president

At the Maisonette, the most famous French restaurant in Cincinnati, managing partner Michael E. Comisar was baffled when he heard about the man who called to ask his receptionist what kind of food the restaurant served.

When she told him it was French, the man asked: How can you sleep at night?

"We back the President 100 percent," says Comisar, a member of the third-generation American family to operate Maisonette. "We're proud to be in this country. But we're proud to do what we do, and we're not going to make any changes."

Comisar isn't sure the anti-French sentiments have hurt his business, but David Conner is certain the ill feelings have slowed sales at his La Caravelle restaurant in Greenhills. A Blue Ash native who offers a French menu and French wine, Conner sympathizes with the American anger focused against the French. But he's surprised how it's expressed.

"I understand not selling French wines," Conner says. "But almost all the food in the restaurant comes from the U.S. People don't order pate, but I make my own pate!"

No one's boycotting jewelry sold at the French Collection in Miami Heights, either. But that's probably because there's really nothing French about the store. The owner's name happens to be Rodney French. He has wondered, though, if and when someone will get angry over his name.

"You never know," says French, whose ancestry is English. "There are all kinds of kooks out there."

Reporter Polly Campbell contributed to this story.