Wednesday, April 2, 2003

To make a true taco, start with soft corn tortilla


Here's How

By Marilyn Harris
Enquirer contributor

Many people associate a crisp-fried corn tortilla with tacos. But because deep frying uses so much oil, is a messy chore and adds unnecessary fat and calories to what should be a simple dish, I much prefer the soft corn version.

Today's recipe, which features a spicy shrimp filling, can be a special appetizer course for a Mexican menu or a delicious supper or lunch dish. Using shrimp instead of a ground meat filling makes it different - and special. Here in the Midwest, I would avoid fresh shrimp. Look for the bags of raw shrimp in the freezer case that are already deveined. They will be split down the back, making them easy to peel. Thawing goes quickly under a stream of cool running water and partially thawed shrimp is actually easier to peel.

The interesting spicy note in this shrimp filling comes from the "chipotle in adobo" chilies, available in small cans in the Mexican section of the grocery. Chipotle is a smoked and dried jalapeno chili pepper that's usually sold dried or canned in a Mexican tomato sauce called "adobo." The sauce picks up the picante, smoky flavor of the chilies and makes an excellent flavor ingredient. If you are not a fan of spicy food, simply use less of both peppers and sauce.

Guacamole is the perfect garnish for this dish. Its creamy texture and mild flavor adds a cool touch to any spicy Mexican dish. If you want to turn it into a side salad, shred extra romaine or iceberg lettuce and spoon the guacamole on top.

Soft Shrimp Tacos with Guacamole

2 pounds large (26-30 count) raw shrimp

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground cumin

Flour

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 large garlic cloves, minced

1 large red onion, halved and thinly sliced

2 canned chipotle chilies in adobo

1 tablespoon adobo sauce (from the canned chilies)

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

12 corn tortillas

1 cup diced ripe tomato (salted to taste)

1 cup finely shredded romaine lettuce

Peel and devein shrimp. Remove the tails along with the peel. Mix together the salt and cumin, and toss the shrimp to coat with the seasoning. Dredge in flour, shaking off the excess.

Heat half of the oil in a large nonstick skillet. Saute the shrimp over high heat, stirring, until they curl and turn pink. Remove with a slotted spoon.

Put remaining oil in the skillet and saute garlic and onion, stirring, for 4 to 5 minutes or until the onion is tender.

Chop the chipotle chilies finely, and add along with the adobo sauce. Return the shrimp and cook for a minute, stirring. Stir in the cilantro and remove from the heat. Taste and correct the seasonings.

Place another medium skillet over medium heat. Moisten each corn tortilla with drops of water on each side. Add the tortillas to the skillet, one at a time, and flip several times until hot, softened and water has been absorbed.

Spoon 2 to 3 tablespoons of the shrimp filling across the center of each tortilla. Top with the tomatoes and lettuce and fold in half. Top with a spoonful of the guacamole Makes 12 servings.

Great Guacamole

3 ripe medium avocados

1/3 cup finely chopped red Spanish onion

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

Salt to taste

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

Peel, seed and mash avocados. Stir in the remaining ingredients. Cover and chill until ready to serve. Makes about 2 cups.

Contact Marilyn Harris by mail: c/o Cincinnati Enquirer, 312 Elm St., Cincinnati 45202; e-mail: marilyn@55krc.com.