By Chuck Martin
The Cincinnati Enquirer

Frittata with onions, mushrooms and peppers

Someone showed me how to make a proper omelet once - how to grab the panhandle with my right hand and slide the cooked egg mass into a plate in my left hand so that the lip of the pan folded the omelets over onto itself. Performed correctly, the omelet's fold turned out perpendicular to the panhandle. (That was important, I remember.)

After a dozen or so eggs of practice, I proudly mastered the technique. But I don't think I ever made omelets that way again.

Fortunately, no one tried to show me how to make a "rolled" French omelet, which, as Julia Child describes in Volume One of her Mastering the Art of French Cooking (Knopf; $40), is produced by jerking the pan at an angle "so that the egg mass is continually hurled against the far lip of the pan until the eggs thicken." Eventually, as the pan is tilted more while being jerked, the eggs form an omelet shape.

I have no doubt dear Julia and other accomplished cooks can roll an omelet with such jerking and hurling. But I wouldn't want to invest the eggs it would take to learn.

INGREDIENTS

Create custom frittatas by adding two or more of these ingredients. • Artichokes, steamed or boiled • Arugula, blanched • Asparagus, steamed, boiled or sauteed • Basil and other fresh herbs • Onions, sauteed • Mushrooms, sauteed • Peas, fresh frozen or sauteed • Potatoes, boiled or sauteed • Red and green bell peppers, sauteed • Spinach, blanched

On my lazy spring weekends, I want to be able to appreciate the blooming tulips and singing robins. Because I don't want to work hard at cooking eggs, I've become more Italian than French. I prefer to make a frittata, which may be less fluffy and delicate than an omelet, but it also requires no detailed instructions or step-by-step illustrations.

Although both the French omelet and Italian frittata begin as lightly beaten eggs, they are prepared and served differently. An omelet is generally cooked quickly, over high heat. A frittata cooks slowly, over low heat. While an omelet is folded and sometimes shaped by all means of pan-shaking, a frittata is served open-faced with little, if any, stirring. And unlike an omelet, which is served immediately and hot, a frittata often is offered at room temperature, cut into wedges and served on a buffet with other dishes.

Those Italians sure know how to do care-free morning food.

I push my frittata technique further to the lazy limit. If I'm going to fill the frittata with vegetables, such as mushrooms, onions and peppers, I saute the vegetables in olive oil and pour the beaten eggs over them in the same pan. Why saute the vegetables in another pan that requires washing?

Some purists insist on cooking the frittata on one side, then inverting it on a plate and turning it over into the pan to finish on the other. This sounds tricky, almost French. I simply cook the eggs until they set on the bottom, then slide the pan under the broiler for a minute or two to finish the top. All I have to do is remember to preheat the broiler.

Which on some spring weekends at my house, can require considerable effort.

Frittata recipes

• This basic frittata technique also works with other sauteed and cooked vegetables.

Frittatta with Onions, Creminis and Red Peppers

1/2 medium onion, sliced thinly

1/3 to 1/2 red bell pepper, diced

6 to 8 medium cremini or other mushrooms, wiped clean, stemmed and sliced thinly

11/2 tablespoons pure or extra-virgin olive oil*

Salt and pepper, to taste

6 eggs, lightly beaten

Grated Parmesan

Fresh basil, thinly sliced

Preheat oven broiler.Using a 10-inch non-stick oven-proof pan, saute sliced onion and diced bell pepper in olive oil over medium heat until vegetables begin to turn soft, about 3 minutes. Add sliced mushrooms and stir. Saute mushrooms until their released moisture evaporates in pan, about another 5 minutes. Add salt and pepper, to taste.

Using spoon, smooth vegetables out evenly in bottom of pan and remove from heat. Beat eggs lightly in bowl and add salt and pepper to taste. Pour beaten eggs into pan with vegetables and return to medium-low heat. Cook eggs, without stirring. To even out frittata, tilt pan to allow loose egg to flow over bottom of pan.

After about 5 minutes, when bottom of frittata appears set but top is still runny, place pan under broiler in oven. Watch carefully and broil until top is set but not browned, about 1 to 2 minutes. Remove pan from oven and sprinkle with black pepper, grated Parmesan and basil. Turn frittatta onto plate and serve warm or at room temperature. Makes about 2 to 4 servings.

Note: Either grade of olive oil will work here, but "pure" may be best for making a frittata because its flavor is less pronounced and because it costs less.

Zucchini Frittata

5 tablespoons olive oil

3 tablespoons finely chopped onion

1 1/2 pounds zucchini, washed and thinly sliced

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

Black pepper

8 large eggs

In 10-inch non-stick skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add chopped onion and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add sliced zucchini,1 teaspoon salt and black pepper to taste. Cover pan and cook 5 minutes, shaking pan occasionally and stirring once. Remove lid and cook zucchini, stirring frequently, until tender but not falling apart, 10 to 15 minutes. (This may be done in advance.)

When ready to make frittata, preheat oven broiler. Beat eggs in bowl, seasoning with remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and black pepper to taste. Reheat zucchini over medium heat, if necessary. Pour eggs over zucchini and stir with spoon. Spread zucchini evenly in pan and allow to cook until bottom is set but top is still runny. Slide pan under broiler and cook, watching carefully, until top is set and begins to brown. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Adapted from In a Roman Kitchen (Wiley; $34.95)

• In their Italian Classics (Boston Common Press; $29.95), the editors of Cook's Illustrated magazine agree the broiler method makes the best and easiest frittata. But they believe this oven technique prevents over-cooking.

Frittata with Leek and Potatoes

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large leek, white part only, sliced thinly

2 medium red potatoes, boiled until tender, drained and diced

2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley

1/3 cup shredded provolone

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

6 large eggs, lightly beaten

Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Heat oil in 10-inch ovenproof non-stick skillet over medium heat. Swirl pan to coat bottom and sides of pan evenly. Add leek and saute until soft, 5 to 6 minutes. Add diced potatoes and parsley and toss to coat with oil. Spread ingredients in single layer in pan.

Beat provolone, salt and pepper with the eggs in bowl. Pour egg mixture into skillet and stir lightly with a fork until eggs begin to set. Once bottom is firm, use a spatula to lift the frittata edge closest to you. Tilt the skillet slightly so that the uncooked egg runs underneath. Return skillet to level position and swirl gently to distribute egg. Cook egg for about 40 seconds, then lift the edge again, repeating the process until the egg on top is no longer runny.

Transfer skillet to the oven and bake until frittata top is set and dry to the touch, 2 to 4 minutes. Makes 2 to 4 servings.