No one says you must use a non-stick pan to make a frittata, but most agree it will be easier. In 1994, the editors of Cooks' Illustrated magazine rated non-stick pans made by All-Clad (about $115 for 10-inch pan) and Calphalon (about $82 for a 10-inch pan) the best.

In September, in a rating of less expensive "everyday" non-stick saute pans, the magazine selected the 10-inch Farberware Millennium (about $30) as the best.

Chef's tip

To prevent toughness in your frittata or omelet, food scientist Shirley Corriher, in her CookWise (Morrow; $28.50), suggests placing the (in-shell) eggs in a bowl of hot tap water for about five minutes before cooking them. Warm eggs will cook more evenly than refrigerator-cold eggs, she says.

From bad egg to good egg

Just a few years ago, many doctors advised their patients to limit their egg consumption to one a week. But eggs are no longer considered the villainous contributor to heart disease.

Eggs are relatively high in dietary cholesterol (212 milligrams per 1 large egg), but researchers aren't sure that dietary cholesterol always increases blood cholesterol levels.

More important, saturated fat is now considered a more serious contributor to heart disease. And eggs contain relatively little saturated fat (2 grams).

So eggs, which are high in protein, vitamins and minerals, have been removed from the unofficial "forbidden food" list.

"They're an economical, nutrient-dense food," says Lauren Niemes, executive director of Cincinnati's Nutrition Council.

The American Heart Association recommends eating as many as three to four eggs a week.

Chuck Martin