By Amy Simmons
Enquirer contributor

When they hear about great new wines coming from "Down Under," many immediately think Australia.

But the Aussies aren't the only ones producing noteworthy wines these days. Turn southeast of Down Under to New Zealand, where its flagship wine - sauvignon blanc - is drawing rave reviews for its attention to lush flavors, good quality and value pricing.

The New Zealand sauvignon blanc is a young export for this small country - large-scale production started less than 15 years ago. Don't be fooled though by age and size, however, since New Zealand sauvignon blanc is packing a punch with wine critics and lovers alike.

Sauvignon blanc is a member of the classic triumvirate of white wine grapes, along with riesling and chardonnay. A medium-bodied wine, sauvignon blanc offers a range of flavors that, depending on the winemaker, run from herbaceous and grassy to zesty and citrus.

New Zealand sauvignon blanc is grown in several key areas in the north and the south of the country's two small islands.

Located in the northern tip of the south island, Marlborough is the prime-producing region and home to most of the country's sauvignon blanc. Marlborough's longer, cooler growing season is credited with boosting the full fruit flavor and acidity of the wines. The north island is home to the Hawkes Bay and Gisborne regions, which also produce substantial amounts of sauvignon blanc.

Unlike its over-oaked cousins in California, a New Zealand sauvignon blanc offers a unique combination of crisp, zesty fruitiness that makes it a solid partner with foods, especially lighter seafood dishes, such as sushi, roasted and grilled shellfish.

New Zealand sauvignon blanc also works well with tomatillo salsa, gazpacho and other higher acidic dishes. Its acidity makes for a nice pairing with ham, which makes it a solid choice for upcoming Easter dinners.

The New Zealand wines we sampled were flavorful with a solid finish and fairly robust without tasting like heavy, oaky California chardonnays. Our favorites included:

• Allan Scott Sauvignon Blanc Vineyard Select 2002 ($11.99): A light style wine that offers tastes of anise and ripe peach from the Marlborough region.

• Grove Mill Sauvignon Blanc 2001 ($15.99): A lovely wine from Marlborough's Waihopai Valley. It's a mix of citrus flavors, especially grapefruit, with a hint of vanilla.

• Mount Riley Sauvignon Blanc 2001 ($14.99): A zesty, acidic wine nicely complimented a friend's delicious preparation of Mediterranean-style fish accompanied by olives and tomatoes.

Wineries to check out include Cloudy Bay, Nautilus, Brancott and Villa Maria, across the younger vintages beginning with 1999.

Local stores stock New Zealand wines in varying amounts. I've found that the larger the store, the greater the selection of this niche category of wines. No matter the size of the store you shop, though, it's well worth exploring these wines.

Contact Amy Simmons by e-mail: asimmons@deskey.com or send questions and comments c/o the Enquirer, 312 Elm St., Cincinnati 45202.