Pilgrim crowds in Jerusalem were thin this Holy Week as Jews celebrated Passover seders and smaller numbers of Christians than in years past retraced the steps of Jesus. Israel's "fence" and travel ban for the West Bank and Gaza shut out Palestinian suicide bombers but also Palestinian Christians. Yet despite 30 months of fighting, the Holy Lands are not devoid of stirrings toward peace.

Palestinian leader Yasser Arafat was forced to accept two cabinet-level reformers who are making honest efforts to steer the Palestinian Authority away from violence. And as more Israelis sense a chance to restart the peace process, Prime Minister Ariel Sharon acknowledged that Israel would have to part with some settlements. Bush initiatives helped bring about these hopeful steps. European and Arab states should show similar backbone and push. The most immediate challenge may be to keep Arafat from sabotaging Palestinians' first Prime Minister Mahmoud Abbas.

The Palestine Legislative Council overruled Arafat's objections and installed the moderate Abbas. Arafat was still smarting from being forced to open the books to the new finance minister, Salam Fayyad, an International Monetary Fund veteran. Fayyad shows clear signs of trying to rein in corruption and keep PA funds from financing terrorism.

Last June, President Bush moved to isolate Arafat after he continued to back "martyr" missions by young suicide bombers too blinded by hate to question why their well-fed, comfortable leaders never volunteer for such shortcuts to paradise. Bush announced we would no longer negotiate with a leader "compromised by terror." Then on March 17, he promised a new "road map" toward a Palestinian state with U.S. protection, but only after Palestinians empower cabinet level leaders not beholden to Arafat's discredited regime. The hope for Mideast peace depends on diplomatic regime change.

Huge "fences" remain: Palestinian demands for a right of return to Israel and for Jerusalem to be made capital of the Palestinian state; Israeli demands that Palestinians adopt democratic institutions and recognize Israel's right to be a Jewish state. High fences, but not insurmountable if enough nations press both sides toward peace.