By Amy Simmons
Enquirer contributor

With Memorial Day upon us, it's time to start pulling out the linen clothes from storage, along with those lighter-style reds for summer. You might look first for pinot noir and beaujolais, but there's also an appellation in Italy - Dolcetto d'Alba - whose winemakers produce a friendly, softer red with a price tag that's just as approachable.

These wines are perfect for everyday enjoyment and work well across several common food categories. Dolcetto d'Alba (dol-CHET-toh DAHL-bah) is a medium-bodied wine that has more substance and complexity than a beaujolais and is more affordable than pinot noir.

Dolcetto d'Alba makes its home in the Piedmont region of Italy, tucked into the northwestern corner of the boot-shaped country. Piedmont is probably best known for its high-quality reds such as barolo, barbaresco, barbara - all of which are well worth exploring if you are a fan of deep, complex red wines.

Dolcetto falls at the lighter end of the wine spectrum and seems to sit in the large shadows cast by Piedmont's more critically acclaimed (and generally more expensive) cousins. (As an aside for white wine drinkers, Piedmont is also home to Moscato d'Asti, a lovely sweet white wine.)

Wines made from the dolcetto grape range in style: Some are full of fruit and youth and others are more earthy, with minor tannins crafted as drier-style red wines. Dolcettos come alive with traditional pasta marinara, chicken and other food partners.

As you peruse your local wine store or grocery, check out these dolcettos for an interesting first - or even second or third - look at this interesting wine category. It's also worth noting that a number of high-quality producers of barbaresco and barolo also produce dolcettos worth noting, which can help guide your purchase.

• Sori Paitin Estate Bottled Dolcetto d'Alba 2001 ($14.99): Rustic with some tannins. Better with food than sipped solo.

• Lucianao Sandrone Dolcetto d'Alba 2001 ($16.99): This wine offered the best balance of the group and the smoothest flavor. A nice mix of soft fruits with just a touch of oak. Of the four, this wine was the best for drinking without food.

• Elio Altare Dolcetto d'Alba 2001 ( $16.99): This entry was slightly earthier than the Sandrone, with a shorter finish.

• Rocca Albino Vignalunga Dolcetto d'Alba 2000 ($14.99): The oldest of the group was by far the driest and most tannic. But this wine softened when partnered with a Parmesan and sage-encrusted chicken dish.

Contact Amy Simmons by e-mail: asimmons@deskey.com or send questions and comments c/o the Enquirer, 312 Elm St., Cincinnati 45202.