By Rebecca Goodman
The Cincinnati Enquirer

Wednesday is chef's night off at my house.

Leftovers from the weekend, when I usually have time to get creative in the kitchen, are gone. By midweek, I haven't the time or energy to prepare an elaborate meal. So instead of an Emeril Lagasse cookbook, I pick up the phone - and call Buddy LaRosa.

When it comes to wine on Wednesday, I've found that Chianti pairs perfectly with delivery from Cincinnati's pizza king. A dry red wine, Chianti is named for the rustic region of Tuscany where it's produced.

I spent a couple of days driving the narrow, hillside roads of Chianti last spring in search of classic Italian food and wine. Locals informed me that Chianti is an everyday wine - one that can be drunk without fear of a hangover.

Ah, the ideal midweek wine for a working girl!

On its own, Chianti might lack the sophistication of a cabernet sauvignon or merlot. But Chianti won't be overwhelmed by tomato sauce, as those other reds might.

My favorite affordable vintage is the 1999 Chianti Classico of Badia a Coltibuono ($20.99). This 2,400-acre estate, outside the village of Gaiole, was founded by Benedictine monks in 1051.

They planted the first vineyards and bestowed the name Badia a Coltibuono, which means "Abbey of the Good Harvest."

The estate was purchased in 1846 by a great-great grandfather of the current winemaker, Roberto Stucchi Prinetti.

Sangiovese is the primary grape in all brands of Chianti. Stucchi Prinetti adds canaiolo grapes (10 percent) to soften the flavor and build a ruby color.

The resulting wine yields a rich, fruity bouquet. The black-cherry taste has a delightful hint of pepper - and a velvety finish.

While the 1999 vintage is outstanding, consider yourself fortunate if you're able to purchase a bottle of the 1997 Chianti Classico Riserva. Riserva is Italian for "reserve" - the best of the batch.

So if it's been a tough week, treat yourself to extra cheese on your pizza and a bottle of the '97.

E-mail sips@enquirer.com