By Mary Sanker
Enquirer contributor

Bebe's Kitchen is the new kid among Tristate carryout shops. It's billed as gourmet take-away and that's all it is; there is no seating in this bright, attractive space that occupies the remodeled site of the former Pasta Supply Company on Wasson Road near Hyde Park Plaza.

There is still fresh pasta, as well as cheese, bread and wine, but the main attractions are the salads, sandwiches and entrees to take home or back to the office.

For lunch, there is a large selection of imaginative sandwich combinations that may be ordered on a variety of breads ($2.95-$7.50). My main complaint is that you get a skinny sandwich when you order on plain bread. The baguette would be more substantial. If you have the time to wait for grilling, you could try a panini, including the Veggie Lovers ($5.95).

At dinner, if you forgo the pasta, a changing menu of vegetables, meat dishes and desserts is available. A recent trip offered a variety of tastes and textures. Sugar snap beans ($7.95/pound) were steamed and slicked with a touch of sesame oil. A rich French veal stew was expensive ($14.95/pound), but one serving didn't break the bank. Ditto with the spicy Cajun-flavored meatloaf ($12.95/pound). Eggplant Parmesan ($8.95/pound) was pretty good, with thick slices of tender eggplant and a decent tomato sauce. The roast chicken ($7.95) was very nice and large enough for several people to share with side dishes. Stuffed with garlic, lemon and rosemary and roasted to a golden brown, the chicken's white meat was miraculously moist and the roasted garlic that came with it was good smeared over a slice of baguette.

Better yet, I bought a container of gravy ($3.95) and jazzed it up with the remaining garlic cloves and poured it over the chicken.

Desserts ranged from homey bread pudding ($3.50/slice) to a sophisticated and delicate apricot mousse ($5.95).

Bebe's Kitchen 2942 Wasson Road, Oakley 841-1800