Wednesday, July 23, 2003

Malia's cooks up homemade to-go


Take Out

By Mary Sanker
Enquirer contributor

Don't let Malia's looks fool you. While the exterior is a bland, squat white building just a few yards from Anderson Township's busy Beechmont Avenue, Malia's interior is charming: A crisp red, white and black decor features whimsical chef motifs and three or four round tables are paired with ice cream parlor chairs.

There is a freezer case of frozen soups, chili, stews and lasagnas to take home, or you can order at the counter and pick up something freshly made to eat in or carry out. Breakfast and lunch are the focus. Omelets, egg sandwiches and bagels dominate the morning, and lunches include sandwiches, wraps, soups and salads.

For a light dinner: large salads ($3.99 to $5.99) to pair with soups ($1.99 per cup with salad) and a daily special such as ribs, meatloaf or chicken breasts ($5.99 for lunch/$7.99 for dinner).

When I dropped in on Tuesday, it was pork roast day. Thinly sliced pork with green beans, a tossed salad and two potato pancakes make up the dinner. The pork was disappointing because it was heated at the store and again when I finally got it home, so the taste and texture suffered.

While the bowtie pasta salad ($3.99 per pound) and Mediterranean wrap sandwich ($5.99 ) were pleasant, I did not care much for the featured tomato artichoke soup ($2.50/cup) as the grassy taste of artichokes overpowered the tomato flavor.

Sandwiches and salads are put together while you wait and everything is homemade, down to the cookies, blondies and brownies available for dessert ($.69-$1.25).

Malia's Kitchen caters parties, meetings and other events, and will fill requests for food not on the menu. Moderately priced, with nothing exceeding the $7.99 dinners, Malia's Kitchen offers good value and convenience.

Malia's Kitchen, 7863 Beechmont Ave., 8 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday-Friday, 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday. 474-0386; malia@maliaskitchen.com