By Marilyn Harris
Enquirer contributor

Fresh eggplant slices stuffed with creamy mozzarella and aromatic basil leaves, then sauteed to a delicate crispness, is my idea of the perfect sandwich for an August meal. When done properly, fried eggplant is a special, tasty treat, but it has the potential to be a cooking disaster. It has a unique spongy texture and a high water content. When eggplant is put into hot oil, the water trapped in the cells is forced out and is replaced by the oil. The result is greasy eggplant.

Prepare eggplant by placing slices in a colander, then sprinkle generously with salt, which will break down those water-filled cells, forcing the excess liquid to drain. Rinse away the salt under cool running water and the eggplant is ready to saute.

Another cooking problem I often hear is breading that refuses to stick during cooking. Solving it is just a matter of technique: After the eggplant (or any food you are breading to fry) is seasoned, dredge in flour and shake off the excess. Then, dip it in an egg wash and finally coat it well with bread crumbs. The bread crumbs are an important part of the formula. I usually make my own in the food processor with French bread or any firm-textured white bread. Day-old bread works best, but it is not necessary to toast it. The very coarse textured panko or Japanese bread crumbs (available in Asian markets or the Asian section in the grocery) are the only dry commercial bread crumbs I recommend.

The last important step of the breading process is to place the breaded food in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. This will set the breading so it stays put when it hits the hot oil . It's good to use a heavy nonstick skillet for frying breaded foods. Use a deep-fat thermometer and add the food when the oil reaches 360 degrees. Don't allow the oil temperature to go higher than 375.

Place the fried eggplant on paper towels to absorb the excess surface oil. Blot both sides quickly, but avoid leaving the eggplant on the paper towels for too long or the crisp texture will be lost. Remove quickly to a warm sheet tray and keep warm in an oven until ready to serve.

Eggplant Sandwiches with Fresh Tomato Sauce

2 medium eggplants

Kosher salt

8 1/4-inch slices fresh mozzarella (rounds)

8 fresh basil leaves, wash and dried

Freshly ground pepper

2 eggs

2 tablespoon water

1/2 cup flour

2 cups fine fresh bread crumbs or panko bread crumbs

Extra-virgin olive oil, for sauteing

Wash and trim eggplants. Cut into 1/2 -inch rounds. Sprinkle generously on both sides with the salt. Place in colander in the sink to drain for 30 minutes. Rinse quickly with cool water and pat dry with paper towels. Sprinkle with pepper to taste.

Place a slice of mozzarella and a basil leaf on an eggplant slice. Top with a second slice and press firmly together.

Beat together the eggs and water. Dredge the eggplant slices in flour, shaking off the excess. Dip into the egg wash, then coat well with the bread crumbs, including the sides. Place on a baking sheet and chill for 30 minutes.

Heat about 2 inches of oil in a nonstick skillet. Fry the sandwiches until golden on both sides. Drain well on paper towels. Place on baking sheets and keep warm in a 200-degree oven until ready to serve or for up to 30 minutes. Top with fresh tomato sauce (recipe follows). Makes 8 servings.

• This fresh tomato sauce is the ideal finish for this vegetable sandwich and a great way to use some of the ripe tomatoes in our markets and gardens. Plum or roma tomatoes are the prefect sauce tomatoes. Take advantage of the season and make a double recipe.

FRESH TOMATO SAUCE

12 large plum tomatoes

3 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 large cloves garlic, minced

3/4 cup finely chopped onion

1 bouquet garni made of 3 sprigs thyme and 2 sprigs rosemary

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoon thinly shredded fresh basil leaves

Wash and core the tomatoes. Cut each in half and chop finely in the food processor. Set aside.

Heat oil in a heavy skillet and saute the garlic and onion until tender, stirring. Add the tomatoes and bouquet garni and cook, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Stir often. Remove the bouquet garni and season the sauce with the salt, hot pepper sauce, sugar and basil. Cook 5 minutes longer. Makes about 3 cups.

Contact Marilyn Harris by mail: c/o Cincinnati Enquirer, 312 Elm St., Cincinnati 45202; e-mail marilyn@55krc.com.