By Marilyn Harris
Enquirer contributor

If the basil forest I have in my herb garden is typical, then I am not the only one thinking of ways to enjoy it while it lasts. In my opinion, no other herb can compete with the aromatic, spicy and sweet flavor of freshly picked basil. Enjoy it now, because it is a herb that is not easily preserved.

Some of my cooking students tell me they store it in the freezer, but I have had poor results when I try to do that. Basil has a high water content and a delicate texture, causing the freezing and thawing process to reduce the leaves to a mushy black mess. Granted, the ugly frozen leaves contain more flavor than the dried ones, but I still maintain that the only really acceptable basil is the fresh stuff.

There are so many ways to incorporate it into all sorts of dishes. The most obvious is to slice luscious vine-ripened tomatoes and garnish them with salt, pepper, plenty of shredded basil and a dash of balsamic vinaigrette. But because tomatoes and basil are such a perfect marriage of flavors, there are numerous recipes for pairing them with delicious results.

This soup is a longtime favorite for a number of reasons: It can be made ahead, it uses a lot of ripe tomatoes ready to be eaten, it keeps well for several days in the refrigerator, and it can be eaten hot or cold. I can never decide which way I like it better. Make a big pot and decide for yourself.

I give you the option in this recipe of starting with butter or fruity extra-virgin olive oil. Butter and tomatoes are fabulous together, a flavor that is favored in the French kitchen. On the other hand, tomatoes and basil are so typically Italian that you may prefer the olive oil combination. It makes a lighter (and somewhat more healthful) soup.

This is not a traditional "cream of tomato" soup; in this recipe, cream gets whipped, seasoned and added at serving time. It makes for a lovely presentation, especially if you sprinkle basil on top of the cream. This method has practical advantages, too. The soup can be easily reheated without worrying about curdling, and it keeps longer in the refrigerator without the cream in the original base. If you want a lighter version, omit the cream altogether.

One final word about basil: Remember, the best way to "chop" basil is not to chop it at all, but to roll several leaves together like a cigar and slice them into thin ribbons called a "chiffonade."

Fresh Tomato-Basil Soup

8 large ripe tomatoes

3 tablespoons unsalted butter or extra-virgin olive oil

2 medium yellow onions, chopped

3 ribs celery, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons flour

5 cups chicken stock

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon hot pepper sauce, to taste

Salt to taste

1/2 cup shredded fresh basil

1 cup whipping cream, chilled

Salt and cayenne pepper

Extra basil, for garnish

Peel and seed tomatoes, reserving the juice. Place tomatoes and juice in the blender and puree until as smooth as possible.

Melt butter (or heat the olive oil) in a large, heavy, nonreactive pot. Saute onions and celery, stirring, for 5 minutes over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook 2 minutes more.

Stir in flour and cook, stirring constantly, 2 minutes. Do not brown. Add tomatoes and their juice. Whisk in the stock. Season with hot pepper sauce and salt. Bring to a boil. Partially cover and simmer 20 minutes. Add the basil and cook 5 minutes longer. Taste and correct seasonings.

Whip the cold cream until stiff. Season to taste with a bit of salt and cayenne. Serve the soup hot, topped with a dollop of the cream and a more finely shredded basil. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Contact Marilyn Harris by mail: c/o Cincinnati Enquirer, 312 Elm St., Cincinnati 45202; e-mail: marilyn@55krc.com.