By Samantha Critchell
The Associated Press

The first fall leaves are just hitting the ground, but the nation's top fashion designers are already looking forward to spring.

Tommy Hilfiger, Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta, Ralph Lauren and Kenneth Cole are among those predicting a bright and sunny season, and their cheery attitudes were reflected in the clothes recently previewed during New York Fashion Week.

The runways were crowded with flirty dresses, open-back tops, sophisticated suits and playful sportswear with just the right amount of sparkle from beads, paillettes and crystals and dazzle from interesting laser cuts, patent leather trim, pouffy skirts and ribbons galore.

Predominant colors included yellow, pink, light purple, sky blue and light green, though Donna Karan and Francisco Costa, the new head designer for Calvin Klein, stuck with very earthy palettes for their urban jungle styles.

Diane von Furstenberg's flapper-style dresses will fit easily in a country clubber's closet next to her straw hats, Lauren's tennis dress and baseball jacket, and polo shirts from Lacoste in shades of sherbet.

Michael Kors, in a statement describing a line that includes a yellow and white "awning stripe" yachting dress and a navy cashmere V-neck sweater paired with gold crystal pants, says he is "crazy for the Caprese ... the jet set lifestyle ... sporty Capri glamour for sun-drenched days and balmy nights."

Many of the designers cited a sense of optimism in their notes about the collections:

• "Spring blooms anew with captivating shades of tropical ice. Lemon, lime, melon and aqua lend brilliance to flirty skirts and richness to spring's newest head-to-toe colored suits," says Lauren, who also added athletic touches such as racing stripes to silk charmeuse dresses.

• "My spring '04 collection is about good times. It is about optimism. Every piece bursts with feel-good energy and color. The look is fresh and exuberant," Hilfiger says of the shrunken silk sweatshirts and polo tops in raspberry and orange and the grosgrain-trimmed taffeta dresses.

• "This season, BCBG Max Azria Collection is defined by a youthful exuberance and girlish charm, offset by an innate sensuality and easy glamour," says Max Azria, who sent clam-diggers with colorful print trims, ruffled bikini tops and a seersucker coat down the runway.