By Mary Sanker
Enquirer contributor

Dorothy Lane Market is a Dayton-area institution that arouses jealousy among food-obsessed Cincinnatians. With departments devoted to meats, produce, wines, cheese, breads and pastries, along with a sumptuous deli and gracious, accommodating staff, DLM - as it also calls itself - is an unforgettable shopping experience. Fortunately, its newest market in Springboro is only about a 30-minute drive from Cincinnati's northern suburbs. (Other locations are in Oakwood, just south of Dayton, and Washington Township, farther south of the city, both on Ohio 48.)

The Springboro site is no ordinary grocery. First, the striking, two-story, dark-stone building looks like it should be in Napa Valley. As you enter, the heady aromas of the coffee bar tempt you, and the yeasty smells of artisan-baked breads beckon.

A grand piano sits on a balcony near a fireplace flanked by soft leather seats, just right for relaxing with an espresso or glass of wine. On the second level is a cafe, where you can sit while sampling delicacies from the extensive carryout counters.

The deli is huge - you could eat for days and not have the same thing twice. And that may be a flaw: I found several selections inconsistent.

Some dishes, such as the leek and potato pie (each $2.49), were nicely done, but the apricot-glazed chicken breast ($9.99 per pound) was dry, as was the roasted tandoori turkey ($9.99 per pound). The all-beef meatloaf ($5.99 per pound) was acceptable, while the more expensive chili-lime salmon ($14.99 per pound) was well-prepared. Most of the side dishes were tasty, such as the four-cheese lasagna ($3.99 per pound)and the sun-dried tomato gnocchi ($5.99 per pound).

Individual desserts are waiting in DLM's patisserie case - sweets such as macadamia chocolate tart ($3.75 each), tiramisu ($3.75 each) and Black Forest torte ($3.95 each).

My only quibble with dessert was that Black Forest torte tasted like canned chocolate syrup. I expected more from such an extraordinary grocery.

Dorothy Lane Market, 740 N. Main St., Springboro, (937) 748-6800; Open: 7 a.m.-11 p.m. daily. Web site