By Angela Stephens
Gannett News Service

During the holidays, certain foods are musts. While we eat some, such as mashed potatoes, all year long, I still get a craving for a fluffy, buttery bowl full served with a thick, rich gravy.

It's comfort food. It's sinful. It's the holidays, so I don't care.

Well, actually, I do care. And, even if you are serving a traditional turkey-based holiday meal, there may be someone in the crowd who is a vegetarian, so you might care, too. That's why you might want to try today's recipe, a vegetarian mushroom gravy.

Holiday meals usually include many different side dishes - most of which are vegetable-based. A sweet potato casserole is certainly delicious when topped with a pecan and coconut crumble.

Cranberry jellies and other compotes make nice accompaniments.

Even desserts can be somewhat good for you. Cinnamon-laced apple pies and spiced pumpkin pies are traditional favorites.

As for that big bowl of mashed potatoes, at this time of year, they're more than just mashed. They're whipped. And there's a big difference.

Mashed is mashed. You smash up the drained, cooked potatoes with a hand-held masher, adding things like butter, milk and salt. It can be hard work on the arms, but these starchy, buttery spuds are indeed yummy.

Whipped is heaven. This version is fluffy and light. And, you let your mixer do all the work while you add salt, warmed milk (not cold) and as many clumps of real butter as you dare. Make sure you serve them immediately, before they get a chance to cool too much.

You might wonder why anyone would even want to smother such rich and creamy potatoes in a gravy at all. I struggle with that decision each time I set a bowl on the table. Should I eat them plain and savor the flavor? Or go for the gravy?

With this mushroom gravy, vegetarians can enjoy it either way.

Vegetarian Mushroom Gravy

11/2 cups boiling water

1/2 ounce assorted dried wild mushrooms

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil

1 (14-ounce) can vegetable broth

5 tablespoons flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

1/4 teaspoon onion powder

1/4 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon dried sage

1/4 teaspoon celery seed

1 teaspoon cider vinegar

Add dried mushrooms to the boiling water and steep at least 10 minutes, until the water turns a dark brown color. Drain off the mushrooms and either discard or finely chop and add back into the gravy later.

Melt butter and oil together in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add flour and whisk until smooth and thick.

Whisk in the mushroom liquid and vegetable broth and heat just to boiling.

Add remaining ingredients and whisk. Simmer for another five to seven minutes. If returning chopped mushrooms to the gravy, do so now. Serve immediately.

Makes about 3 cups gravy or about 12 (1/4 cup) servings.