By Joy Kraft
The Cincinnati Enquirer

Booties such as the suede Vaneli, $86, are right with pants, also with short jumpers or skirts. Knee-skimming lengths, such as the Nine West crimson leather, $119.99, are best with short skirts. (Brandi Stafford photo)

The highs and lows of this season's boots can be confusing, with designs from ankle-grazers to over-the-knee and everywhere in between.

The luxe leathers and soft suedes are hard to resist, especially in the luscious lipstick reds and soft pastels that are throwbacks to the '70s.

"Boots are bigger this year than last year," says Becky Millward, associate buyer for shoes and accessories for DOTS. "The shaft has gotten very tall because helmlines on pants and skirts have gotten shorter.

"And the leathers are plainer. The detailed embossing and animal skin patterns are not as strong."

For the sporty set, Steve Madden has a new take on the athletic shoe with a pair of stiletto-heeled knee-highs with a mesh heel patch and team numbers, as well as a pair of front-laced, flat-heeled "boxer" boots.

"Boots are a great way to look more sophisticated in any attire choice," says Cary Hack, a buyer for Lazarus-Macy's. "When the need arises to look more polished and current, the boot is the way to go."

But what height goes best with a long skirt, a knee-length or a miniskirt?

As the swashbucklers say about the "Pirate Code" in the popular Johnny Depp movie Pirates of the Caribbean, "I like to think of them more as guidelines."

The most consistent guideline is to create a monochromatic line with opaque hose the same color as the boot to lengthen the leg.

Here are the most popular boot lengths and style tips:

Shootie: This below-the-ankle boot is a combination of a shoe and a boot is worn with long pants.

Bootie: Casual styles, 2 to 3 inches above the ankle are worn with pants, jeans, cords or khakis and may have lug bottoms. Dressier versions have a zip-slide slimmer fit and are worn with dress pants - though they partner nicely with matching opaque tights and slim-fitting dresses. Heel heights are in the 1- to 2-inch range.

Mid-shaft: This newer height hits mid-lower calf. Because it hits at the widest part of the calf, it is flattering paired with a miniskirt or an A-line that stops just above the boot top.

Knee boot: Best choice for those who want to invest in just one boot for the season . . worn with pants, short skirts or under longer skirts.

Over-the-knee: Worn with minis or tucked-in spandex pants or jeans, if there's room.

Figure-flattering boots:

Thick calves: Look for boots with leather and elastic gussets or a straight fit and wide leg opening rather than a tight fit.

Thin legs: Looser-fitting, scrunched styles can create curves. And trims, such as big buckles, straps, quilting and lace-up or cords, add definition to the leg. Look for boots with adjustable buckles or strapping at the top.

Short legs: Pointed toes make you look taller, as do stiletto heels. Ankle boots with higher heels create length, as do vertical trim, such as buttons or buckles up the side.

Boot partners

One basic pair of boots can take on a dozen fashionable faces with the right mix-and-match legwear.

HUE Legwear, found at Lazarus-Macy's, Dillard's, Parisian and Elder-Beerman, has a trio of socks and liners that can travel solo, blending in the background to match boots, or double up in patterns and splashy colors to steal the show. $5-$12.

Bootliners, of tightly woven 90 denier opaque, come in three lengths - mid-calf, knee-skimmers and over-the-knee - and brilliant colors from eggplant and apple to royal and chartreuse.

Hesitant to invest in thigh-high boots? Over-the-knee socks can get you the look without the leather in wool solids or polka dots, stripes and florals.

Legwarmers, in cotton or wool, textured furry to stripes with stirrups, can be worn alone or peeking out of boots tops. To get the color without the bulk, there are boot cuffs that also can be worn as arm warmers.