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Saturday, December 6, 2003

Scent bottles carry air of high society


Antiques detective

By Anne Gilbert
Enquirer contributor

Many beginning collectors are attracted to 20th-century perfume bottles, but scent bottles date to Roman antiquity.

Many of the more recent bottles can be more expensive than ancient examples. Prices depend on many factors, from the name of the maker to quality of materials and artistic techniques.

Over the centuries, purposes for scented oils have varied from religious and funeral ceremonies, to aphrodisiacs, to cover-ups for lack of hygiene.

Mini works of art

The shapes and the materials used for scent bottles also have changed. From the 16th century on, when made by talented artists and craftsmen, these bottles can be classified as miniature works of art. Sizes range from 21/2 to 4 inches.

Egyptian bottles imitated the forms of Greek ceramic pieces: tubular and globular. As a status symbol among nobility, scent bottles were worn on the wrist, attached by a cord. These days, many collectors wear them around their neck.

By the late 16th century, perfume-making became an important business in Europe. Jewelers, goldsmiths, glassmakers and ceramic factories created some of the finest scent bottles made.

Glass falls out of favor

By the 18th century, glass scent bottles were out of fashion. More favored were bottles made by English porcelain factories, such as Bow, Chelsea and Worcester.

At the same time in America, small scent bottles were being made by the Stiegel Manheim Glass Works in Pennsylvania. Some figural forms included hearts and seahorses.

In 19th-century England, bottles were made using the newly popular cameo glass. There also was a revival of nailsea (glass with white or color swirls). Popular exports from Bohemia were ruby and flashed glass, often combined with floral enamel motifs.

In the early 20th century, scent bottles were replaced by perfume bottles. Galle, Lalique and Tiffany bottles can sell in the thousands today.

When considering a scent bottle, note: Authentic old Roman glass scent bottles are lightweight; fakes are heavy. Also, faked iridescence will have an even pattern.

Contact Anne Gilbert by mail: c/o Cincinnati Enquirer, 312 Elm St., Cincinnati 45202. Photos cannot be returned.




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