By J.M. Hirsch
The Associated Press

It had been nearly a decade since I'd last had nut loaf, a crunchy and savory meatloaf-like dish that marries rich, slow-roasted nuts and seeds with a deep tomato base and the bite of balsamic vinegar.

My first exposure to nut loaf, a staple of British vegetarian fare but relatively absent from American menus, was when I first moved to Scotland and stayed briefly with a farmer and his wife.

She was a gifted cook who accompanied hearty vegetarian meals of produce fresh from the earth and breads hot from the oven with fruity berry wines her husband fermented in giant jugs in the pantry.

The most memorable of those meals was a meaty nut loaf served with a mild mushroom gravy, creamy mashed potatoes and braised carrots. A hungry student with a huge appetite, I ate half the loaf.

So inspired was I by this meal, I insisted on having the recipe. I scribbled it out on the back of a blank check, tucked it away for safe keeping and promptly forgot about it.

Ten years later, I dug out that old recipe, determined finally to make it after all these years. Of course, there was a snag. My hostess' loaf was firm thanks to eggs, which I no longer eat.

My challenge was to make an egg-free loaf that holds together. Surprisingly, the solution was contained on that original blank check.

I noticed my hostess suggested substituting peanut butter or tahini (sesame seed paste) if you were short of nuts. That, along with grinding the nuts and seeds more finely, was the secret to an eggless loaf.

To save time, buy nuts and seeds already roasted, but make sure they are not salted. When buying the cashews, be sure to buy the inexpensive pieces, rather than more costly whole nuts. The recipe calls for grinding them up, anyway.

It is important to let the loaf rest after cooking. Serve thick slices with a dollop of marinara or a mushroom gravy. Cold leftovers also are good in a sandwich with ketchup.

Nut Loaf

1 cup peanuts, raw and unsalted

1 cup sunflower seeds, raw and unsalted

1/2 cup almonds, raw and unsalted

1/2 cup cashew nuts, raw and unsalted

1 medium carrot, finely grated

1 medium onion, finely grated

1 medium apple, finely grated

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

6-ounce can tomato paste

3 tablespoons peanut butter

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce (see note)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Arrange the nuts and seeds on a baking sheet and dry roast in the oven for 12 to 15 minutes, or until lightly golden. Remove from the oven and allow to cool, about 10 minutes. Leave the oven on.

Once the nuts and seeds have cooled, transfer them to a food processor and pulse until well ground and they form a coarse meal. Transfer the ground nuts to the bowl of a standing mixer, or a large mixing bowl.

Add remaining ingredients and mix until well combined. The mixture should be thick and sticky.

Lightly oil a loaf pan. Use a rubber spatula to scrape the mixture into the pan and smooth the top. Bake for 30 minutes. If the top begins to brown too much, cover with foil for remaining baking time.

Remove the loaf from the oven and allow to set for 15 minutes. To serve, run a sharp knife along the edges of the loaf to separate it from the pan. Place a large plate upside down over the loaf and invert it to remove the loaf from the pan. Slice and serve. Makes 8 servings.

Note: Worcestershire sauce traditionally is made with anchovies. Vegan versions are available at most natural food shops.