Wednesday, February 4, 2004

Great restaurant dishes

Restaurant writer Polly Campbell points the way to great braised dishes on Tristate menus:

Osso buco is an Italian dish of braised cross-cut veal shanks. There's a wonderful version at Andiamo! in Oakley, served with polenta. ($29).

The new Valentino at Coconut Grove in Newport has an unusual pork osso buco. ($21.75).

Braised lamb shanks - the whole leg - are popular. Slims in Northside usually has a version on the menu. (part of the $22.50 menu)

Another place to try is Cafe Istanbul at Newport on the Levee. ($15.95).

Aioli, downtown, serves a braised lamb shank with root vegetable dumplings and gremolata. ($21). There's also an appetizer of chipotle-braised beef with blue corn cakes, guacamole, New Mexico red chile sauce and cr╦me fraiche. ($8).

Another kind of beef that's stewed in a minimum amount of liquid in the German dish sauerbraten; the best version is probably at Ron's Roost in Bridgetown. ($13.95).

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