Wednesday, February 25, 2004

Cook maintains Greyhound's reputation

By Chuck Martin
The Cincinnati Enquirer

Yoki Christofield has been hand-dipping onion rings at the Greyhound Tavern in Fort Mitchell for 16 years.
The Cincinnati Enquirer/BRANDI STAFFORD

When Butch and Mary Ann Wainscott bought the Greyhound Tavern in 1987, the historic Fort Mitchell restaurant already had the reputation for some of the best made-from-scratch onion rings in town. To maintain that reputation, the next year the Wainscotts turned the onion ring operation over to Yoki Christofield.

Christofield cuts the ends off large sweet Spanish onions and removes the peel. She then cuts two thick slices from the center of each onion and saves the smaller ends for other use in the kitchen. As Christofield separates the slices into rings, she removes the paper-thin inner skin or membrane.

"That helps the batter stay on," she says.

The rest of the process is simple: Christofield dips the onion rings in buttermilk, then dredges them in flour, shaking off the excess. She does this quickly, two handfuls of onion rings at a time. She stacks the breaded rings on a tray and refrigerates them until an order comes in, when they're fried in hot oil.

Christofield has probably floured tons of onion rings over the years, which may explain why she doesn't eat them.

"I don't really like onion rings," she says with a smile.

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