By Rebecca Goodman
The Cincinnati Enquirer

From more than 600 wines poured over the weekend at the Cincinnati International Wine Festival, I sampled scores of vintages from throughout the world. The festival affords the chance to try outrageously expensive wines - such as a $110 cabernet sauvignon that wasn't worth it.

Fortunately, the festival also reveals some great values - such as a dry Spanish red called Protocolo (Villarta, 2001). Made of tempranillo grapes by the Dominio de Eguren winery, this wine has an earthy aroma and tastes like cherry pie. While not a wine to uncork should King Juan Carlos drop in, you won't feel you've short-changed your taste buds in paying $5.99 a bottle for this rich, full-bodied "tinto."

Among the French wines, I liked the 2000 Moulin d'Issan, Bordeaux superieur. The cherry and raspberry flavors were refined in this dry red, which costs $12.99.

From California, Ceja Vineyards was an exciting discovery. Pronounced "say-ha," this family operation grows its own grapes in Napa and Sonoma. All the Ceja wines were impressive. But you may want to introduce yourself to the most affordable red and white vintages, dry table wines labeled Ceja Vino de Casa (Spanish for "house wine"). Each costs $19.99. The 2001 red is a blend of merlot, pinot noir and syrah. The taste is of tart strawberry and raspberry, with soft tannin. The 2002 white is a blend of pinot gris, chardonnay and viognier. It has an aroma of tropical fruit and a citrus taste.

If you can't find these wines, ask your retailer to order them. Or feel free to e-mail me, and I'll name places that carry them.

To see what the festival judges thought were the best wines, go to www.winefestival.com.

E-mail rgoodman@enquirer.com