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Wednesday, May 5, 2004

Sushi doesn't deserve slams


Midnight gourmet

By Nick Tolbert
Enquirer contributor

I am a straight-up city boy. I grew up on fried foods. So the notion of eating raw fish was beyond me.

I could hear the fellows now, "You eat sushi? Man, you are nuts." Or better, "Dog, you need to turn in your brother card. Guys don't eat sushi!"

One thing about being a chef, I have learned to taste all kinds of food, whether I like it or not. So if you are intimidated by eating raw fish, don't be. It's pretty good.

In case you don't know, sushi is Japanese rice that has been seasoned with sweetened vinegar and then either topped with or wrapped around cooked or raw fish, and, in some cases, eggs. Often these tidbits are garnished with seaweed, sesame seeds, avocado or cucumber and served with soy sauce on the side for dipping.

If you start with the soft stuff, you'll never go wrong: tuna, salmon, yellowtail and flounder or "hirame." (Whitefish is not suitable for sushi because it has bacteria that grow in the flesh of the fish.) If you prefer cooked seafood, there are shrimp, crab, octopus and squid. Either is an experience you will never forget.

Another reason for the popularity of sushi is its health benefits. It is a great source of protein, B vitamins and minerals. Sushi fish, such as salmon and tuna, contain omega-3 fatty acids, which facilitate healthy blood flow by dilating blood vessels.

Fresh fish is the key to great sushi. Basically, if it smells fishy, it's not fresh. When buying sushi, make sure it looks, feels and smells fresh. If you follow these basics, you will be a pro no matter how your friends tease and taunt. You will be able to look them square in the eye and say: "I am a real man" - or maybe a real woman.

Nigiri-Sushi

OK, you have a bowl of well-cooked rice and raw fish (tuna is a great selection) neatly cut into perfect slices. Here's how to combine the two to make nigiri-sushi, the most common type of sushi.

1. Season rice with vinegar and shape about 2 tablespoons of the rice into balls the size of a ping-pong ball.

2. Open your left hand and place a piece of raw fish (or whatever other topping you choose) over your fingers just above your palm.

3. Place a small amount of wasabi on the fish.

4. Place the rice ball on top of the slice of fish.

5. Gently close your left hand, pressing the rice ball.

6. Flip the rice and fish over carefully so that the fish is on the top.

7. Press in the side edges of the nigiri-sushi with the thumb and index finger of your right hand.

8. Use your index finger to press down on the surface of the fish.

9. Turn the nigiri clockwise on your hand.

10. Press lightly once or twice on the ends. The nigiri is ready to serve.

Contact Nick Tolbert by phone: 362-2723; e-mail: thepulse of thecity@hotmail.com.




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