Crispy Skin Salmon with Gingery Greens

1 2-pound salmon filet, skin on

1 pound kale, collards or other dark greens, or a combination

5 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon peeled and grated fresh ginger

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 teaspoon sesame oil

Rinse fish well, cover with paper towels and let it rest in refrigerator while preparing greens.

Wash greens in several changes of water and steam them in an inch of water brought to a boil until soft, 20 minutes or more. Drain greens, rinse in cold water, squeeze dry and chop.

Preheat gas grill or start charcoal fire in a grill that can be covered. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in large non-stick saute pan. Add garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, 1 minute - don't brown. Add greens and cook, stirring occasionally, about 3 minutes; add ginger and cook another minute, then add soy sauce and sesame oil and turn off heat. Remove to a platter and keep warm.

With knife, score skin of the salmon in crosshatch pattern. Oil fish well with remaining olive oil. Put fillet on preheated grill, skin side down, and cover. Cook, undisturbed, without turning, until done.

Remove fillet carefully with large spatula and place atop warm greens. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Fish: The Complete Guide to Buying and Cooking (MacMillan; $27.50)

These flavored butter and sauce recipes are from Fish: Grilled & Smoked (Storey; $16.95).

Lemon Beurre Blanc

1 medium shallot, finely chopped

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

Juice of 1/2 lemon (about 11/2 tablespoons)

2/3 cup unsalted butter

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon white or pink peppercorns, finely ground

Zest of 1 lemon (about 1 tablespoon

Combine shallot, vinegar and lemon juice in saucepan over moderate heat. Raise heat to high and cook until reduced by one quarter, about 2 minutes.

Add one quarter of butter, the salt and pepper. Whisk together with shallot mixture and bring to boil.

Remove from heat and slowly whisk in remaining butter, a little at a time. Add zest just before whisking in the last of the butter. Sauce should thicken like mayonnaise. Makes about 3/4 cup.

Dill Butter

1 cup unsalted butter

1/2 cup finely chopped fresh dill

Freshly ground pink or black peppercorns

Melt butter in medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Add dill and ground peppercorns to taste. Stir, remove from heat and use immediately, or refrigerate or freeze for later use.

Cherry-Balsamic Sauce

1 cup fresh cherries, washed and pitted

1/2 cup fish or chicken stock

1/4 cup fresh thyme, stemmed

2 tablespoons brandy

1 teaspoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons brown sugar

11/2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

Pulse cherries several times in food processor, until coarsely chopped. Simmer chopped cherries with stock, thyme, brandy and lemon juice in saucepan over medium heat 10 to 12 minutes, until reduced by half. Add brown sugar and vinegar, stir and simmer 2 to 3 minutes, until thoroughly heated. Remove from heat, but keep warm. Serve with grilled salmon. Makes 4 servings.