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Thursday, May 13, 2004

Ecko growing up with clientele



By Samantha Critchell
The Associated Press

His logo might be a rhinoceros, but Marc Ecko might be more aptly described as a chameleon.

He seems to adapt to whatever environment he's in at the moment: When he's courting young, hip-hop fans looking for cool clothes, he's the foul-mouthed, slouchy jeans-wearing, friend-of-50 Cent Ecko; at home with his pregnant wife and daughter, he's doting dad Marc.

And when he's playing grown-up, running a company, attending events and doing interviews, he's almost-a-mogul Marc Ecko.

This is the guy who greets a reporter at his sophisticated, sparse Manhattan office to show off his new, more tailored labels, the Mark Ecko Collection and Cut & Sew by Marc Ecko.

Tailored to casual

There are blazers, cashmere sweaters and hand-embroidered shirts. A snowboard-style jacket in suit fabric and with dress buttons is one of Ecko's personal favorites.

He holds on to youthful touches, though, putting varsity-style lettering down the sleeve of a suit jacket and writing "Nothing Special" across a leather briefcase.

Personally, Ecko can't part with his New York Yankees baseball cap, worn slightly askew, and he still collects toys and sneakers.

"I design for people I know. They (the garments) are for myself, following my consumption tendencies," says the 31-year-old.

"I am growing up with our customer. ... The moment in your life when you throw your back out, you realize you can't do slinky, clingy fabrics anymore."

He adds: "I want to take the classic classification - like Ralph Lauren or Facconable - and make it relevant to someone my age with my interests. I'm at the point where I want a good watch, and good luggage, and good shoes."

He'd like to see thirtysomething men start dressing the way that rappers make music, "sampling" and "remixing" different styles, brands and looks.

"I'd call it modern Miami Vice," Ecko says with a laugh.

Most other menswear conglomerates were built from the top down, Ecko says, but it made sense, especially considering his core customer, to start with the mass-market Ecko Unlimited and move into more specialized - and expensive - niches.

Business burgeoning

In addition to Unlimited, Cut & Sew and Collection, G-Unit Clothing, a partnership with rapper 50 Cent, Zoo York, a line of skateboards and skater-inspired clothing and gear, and the women's line Femme Arsenal, all fall under the Marc Ecko Enterprises umbrella. He also does a line of products exclusively for Target and publishes Complex Magazine, which has a circulation of 315,000, and the company is the sole funding source for a Ukrainian orphanage.

Projected revenues for last year top $400 million. His next project is rumored to be a partnership with Beyonce that would feature the pop star's designs.

"I have a real business plan, this isn't a vanity project for me. I don't see my job as having to sell retailers, I want to sell at retail. I want people to say, 'Marc Ecko makes a good shirt.' "




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Ecko growing up with clientele
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