By Kate Lawson
The Detroit News

Attention: Fans of things that go "moo" - specifically steak lovers - grilling season is in full swing.

Grilling is the simplest, most basic cooking there is, and what happens when you slide a sirloin or T-bone on the grill grate is simply magical.

From the elegant filet mignon, a juicy, boneless New York strip, impressive porterhouse and flavorful rib-eye to the more economical yet equally tasty flank and tri-tip, there are plenty of reasons to put steak on your plate this summer.

Before you moan that gas and milk prices are gobbling up your grocery budget, here's something you should know: You don't need to serve filets to make your steak dinner a standout.

Oftentimes, less expensive cuts are actually more flavorful - if you know how to prepare them correctly.

In his book, Championship Barbecue (Harvard Common Press; $18.95), Paul Kirk turns the more economical tri-tip into a culinary masterpiece using a fresh basil marinade.

TV show host Bobby Flay writes in his Boy Gets Grill (Scribner; $30), that whatever the cut, choosing a great steak is about two things: flavor and texture. Flay recommends finding a good butcher if possible, or buying meat from a supermarket meat counter.

"The only thing to avoid completely is meat that's prepackaged in plastic trays. The whole point of aging steak," says Flay, "is to dry it out, to let the flavors concentrate and improve the texture. Plastic turns the meat wet and swampy." Of course, the best steak is Certified Black Angus or USDA prime-grade, but choice meat will do just fine.

Teaching chef Jeff Gabriel offers these tips for the summer steak cook:

•  Use just enough marinade to coat the meat; it should not be swimming in liquid.

• Don't keep poking the meat with a thermometer. "You'll let the juices run out. "If needed, use a wooden skewer to plug the hole."

• Regardless of what cut you choose, always remember to wait five to 10 minutes before cutting so the juices stay in the meat and not on the cutting board.

Sirloins and Red Onions with Blue Cheese Butter

BLUE CHEESE BUTTER

4 ounces (about 3/4 cup) creamy blue cheese, at room temperature

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

4 tablespoons chopped chives, divided

STEAK AND ONIONS

2 tablespoons dried thyme leaves

11/2 teaspoons kosher salt

11/2 teaspoons coarse black pepper

3 (1-inch thick) boneless sirloin steaks (11/4 pounds each), trimmed of fat

3 large red onions (21/4 pounds)

3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil for brushing on onions and greasing grill rack

4 to 6 metal skewers or wooden skewers (soaked for 30 minutes in water)

For the blue cheese butter, break cheese into small pieces and place in a mixing bowl along with butter and 3 tablespoons of the chives. Using a fork or spoon, blend the ingredients together. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. For steaks and onions, mix together thyme, salt and pepper in a small bowl.

Use half of the seasoning mixture to rub on both sides of each steak. Peel onions, then halve lengthwise and cut each half into three-fourths inch thick wedges going through the root ends. Divide wedges and place on skewers.

Place olive oil in a small bowl, then brush onion wedges on all sides with it. Sprinkle remaining seasoning mixture over both sides of onions. When ready to cook, oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source.

Prepare grill for a hot fire. When grill is ready, grill skewered onions, turning often, until charred around the edges and tender. Onions will take about 20 minutes.

When done, remove from grill and cover loosely with foil. After onions have been on grill 10 minutes, add steaks. Grill steaks until lightly charred outside and pink inside, 4 to 6 minutes per side for medium rare.

Halve each steak and arrange on a serving platter surrounded by onions. Top each steak with a generous dollop of blue cheese butter and sprinkle with remaining chives. Makes 6 servings.