Wine is fine for those counting carbohydrates. The typical dry white wine contains 1.2 grams of carbohydrates per 5-ounce glass. Dry red wine has 2.5 carbs. (Sweet wines tend to be higher in carbs - because less of their grape sugar has been converted to alcohol.)

So, I was intrigued when Valley Oaks Winery in Hopland, Calif., began touting a new chardonnay and merlot as "the first crafted for carb-conscious consumers." The chard is called One.6, while the merlot is dubbed One.9. The names reflect the number of carbs in a glass of each. Valley Oaks says "careful grape selection, dry fermentation and specific blending" result in its low-carb wines, which sell for $9.99 a bottle. A $5 million ad campaign has been launched. Retailers and restaurants nationwide have ordered more than 300,000 cases.

Those are big numbers. But when it comes to carbs, the numbers in One.6 Chardonnay and One.9 Merlot are similar to those of other dry wines. Could the hoopla be a marketing ploy? I put the low-carb wines to a taste test.

The 2003 vintage of the medium-bodied One.6 Chardonnay tastes of sour lemon with a bit of oak on the finish. It's drinkable. The 2002 vintage of the full-bodied One.9 Merlot is tannic - tasting mostly of oak with some sour cherry. It's much less drinkable.

Bottom line: Any difference in carbs between these wines and most others is negligible - and there are better-tasting wines for about the same price.

Rebecca Goodman

E-mail rgoodman@enquirer.com