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Wednesday, July 28, 2004

Churn up your own ice cream



The Associated Press

Ice cream is a universally favorite dessert, widely loved by young and old. Just try to imagine summertime, or a child's birthday celebration, without it.

If you've never made ice cream, consider churning a batch of sweet, creamy coffee ice cream for your next get-together. Infused with coarsely ground coffee beans, this frozen treat is best served with crisp butter cookies and a touch of whipped cream.

In the United States, ice creams are often referred to as custard-, French-, or Philadelphia-style. The base of custard- or French-style ice cream is made by cooking cream or milk, sugar, egg or egg yolks and flavorings. This style has a rich and smooth texture.

Philadelphia-style ice cream, on the other hand, is made without eggs, resulting in a product that's not nearly as rich and creamy. Its base is made simply by heating the cream and milk to incorporate the sugar and other ingredients.

When preparing to freeze the custard, make sure the base is very cold before it's added to the machine's canister. If possible, let the base chill and "ripen" in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours to ensure it is properly cooled and the flavors are fully developed. Fill the canister no more than two-thirds full to allow space for the base to expand as it freezes.

The ice cream is properly frozen when it looks like slightly grainy soft-serve ice cream.

Stephane Weber, lecturing instructor in baking and pastry arts at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y., suggests, "An ice cream mix should always be made a minimum of 24 hours before churning. This will allow the protein to relax and absorb any excess liquid to avoid formation of ice crystals."

Flavoring ice cream

• Ingredients such as vanilla beans, tea, coffee or spices are steeped in the liquid of the custard base, infusing it with their flavors.

• Ingredients such as caramel, ganache or fruit purees can be folded in at the end of the churning stage for a rippled effect.

• Pieces of fruit, nuts, chocolate and candy can add texture.

To incorporate additional ingredients, transfer the ice cream to a bowl and fold in pieces with a spatula.

Variations

• Green Tea, Earl Grey, or Chai Ice Cream - Replace coffee beans with 1/2 cup of tea leaves.

• Star Anise Ice Cream - Replace coffee beans with 1/2 cup toasted star anise. Do not strain the custard after cooking; leave the anise in the base during refrigeration, then strain before freezing.

• Toasted Coconut Ice Cream - Replace coffee beans with 21/2 cups lightly toasted unsweetened coconut.

• Cardamom Ice Cream - Replace coffee beans with 1/4 cup chopped green cardamom pods.

• Almond Ice Cream - Replace coffee beans with 1/2 cup almond paste.

• Peanut Butter Ice Cream - Replace coffee beans with 1/2 cup peanut butter.




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