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Wednesday, August 25, 2004

En papillote puts dinner in the bag


Techniques

By Karen Fernau
The Arizona Republic

Cooking en papillote sounds complicated. In fact, it's just the opposite.

En papillote (in PAP'-e-oht) is a simple French technique that home cooks can easily master. It calls for wrapping food in parchment paper and briefly baking.

Parchment paper, available in grocery stores, seals in moisture and prevents flavorful cooking juices from running out.

This cooking method is also fast and healthful. Food cooks in about 15 minutes and requires little or no added fat.

To cook en papillote, pair foods with similar cooking times, such as summer squash and red snapper. Cut food into medallion-size pieces. Next, place food, herbs, spices or sauce on a piece of parchment. Fold the paper to enclose the food, then bake the bundle.

The result is a dramatic, puffed package.

Lemon Sole en Papillote

4 pieces parchment paper, each about 12 inches square

8 tablespoons butter, softened

4 lemon sole fillets, 6 ounces each

2 cups baby fennel, sliced thin

24 pitted green olives

4 teaspoons preserved lemon rind, cut in thin strips (see note)

12 cherry tomatoes, cut in half

3/4 cup dry sherry

1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley

Salt and pepper to taste

Heat oven to 400 degrees.

On each parchment square, spread about 1 tablespoon butter about a quarter of the way from the bottom. Place a lemon sole fillet on top of the butter and divide the rest of the ingredients among the packets, including the rest of the butter, spreading them over and around the fish.

For each packet, fold the parchment over the fish and crimp the edges so the fish is encased inside a pouch.

Place the pouches on an ungreased baking sheet. Bake 12 minutes.

Carefully remove pouches from oven and place on serving plates. Cut open at the table, so the aroma is part of the dining experience. Makes 4 servings.

Note:

If preserved lemon rind is unavailable, you can substitute an equal quantity of fresh lemon zest, but it will alter the taste of the dish.

Fresh Berries en Papillote

4 pieces parchment paper, each about 12 inches square

6 cups mixed fresh berries, such as a combination of strawberries, blueberries, blackberries and raspberries

1/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup Grand Marnier liqueur

1 pint premium vanilla bean ice cream

Heat oven to 400 degrees.

Divide berries evenly among the parchment sheets, placing them about a quarter of the way from the bottom of each sheet. Sprinkle the berries with sugar and Grand Marnier. Fold the parchment over the berries and crimp the edges to make a packet.

Place pouches on ungreased baking sheet. Bake 10 minutes. Remove from oven, cut open and top with ice cream. Makes 4 servings.




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