By J.M. Hirsch
The Associated Press

On too many dinner tables the salad is an afterthought, a random toss of greens and garden castoffs offered for seemingly no other reason than that the host thinks it ought to be.

It need not be that way. Salads can stand on their own merits, complement the meal and even challenge the palate, yet never threaten to overshadow the entree.

As so often is the case, simplicity is best. My favorite salad is an elegant yet rustic heap of mesclun greens drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil, salt and balsamic vinegar. The construction may be simple, but the tastes are bold and complex.

That same basic salad also can be dressed up to suit different themes. Asian on the menu? Substitute toasted sesame oil and seasoned rice vinegar, then sprinkle with sesame seeds.

In fall, add thin slices of apples or pears. For more oomph, toss the greens with roasted whole garlic cloves and drizzle with cider vinegar and toasted hazelnut oil.

For a more substantial yet equally simple salad, try an Italian tomato and mozzarella platter. Alternate slices of Roma tomatoes with water-packed mozzarella. Top with basil leaves, salt, freshly ground black pepper and extra-virgin olive oil.

For a Greek version of the same dish, substitute crumbled feta cheese for the mozzarella and replace the basil with fresh thyme and pitted Kalamata olives.

Pickles are another - and often underrated - way to liven up a salad. Toss diced bread and butter pickles (some of the new zesty varieties are particularly good) with chopped romaine lettuce hearts and corn kernels. Drizzle with a blend of cider vinegar and mayonnaise.

For a fantastic dinner salad, try a strawberry salad with poppy seed dressing. This simple salad of romaine, strawberry slices and almond slivers from Cooking Light magazine has received many rave reviews from our dinner guests.

Strawberry Salad with Poppy Seed Dressing

3 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons light mayonnaise

2 tablespoons fat-free milk

1 tablespoon poppy seeds

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

10-ounce bag romaine lettuce, roughly chopped

1 cup sliced strawberries

2 tablespoons toasted slivered almonds

Combine the sugar, mayonnaise, milk, poppy seeds and vinegar in a small bowl and whisk well.

Place the lettuce in a large bowl. Add the strawberries and almonds and toss lightly.

Divide among individual serving plates and drizzle each with about 1 tablespoon dressing.

Makes 6 servings.