By Samantha Critchell
The Associated Press

Oscar de la Renta, always in a suit and more than likely a yellow tie, is both charming and modest. His appearance is elegant, his manner professional.

And, in what might be his greatest accomplishment of all, his collections are consistent.

No matter what fashion season we are in - and de la Renta launched his namesake ready-to-wear business in 1965 - it's easy to pick out the "Oscar" garments: They are well-tailored yet romantic, luxurious and a touch tropical.

De la Renta's consistency isn't boring; in fact, it's quite refreshing in an industry that sees rising stars fall like a loose spaghetti strap after one misstep.

The glittering gold ball gown and skirt suits with fitted jackets and fur trim that de la Renta sent down the runway during fall 2004 previews couldn't be more on trend for the season, but they are in no means trendy.

He hopes to bring that measured elegance to two new projects: the launch of O Oscar, a moderate-priced collection and the introduction of a seventh women's fragrance, Rosamor.

"Everything Oscar does is feminine, romantic and appropriate," says Anna Wintour, editor in chief of Vogue. (Vogue features a profile of de la Renta in its September issue.)

Aware of reputation

"He's not out there trying to be revolutionary, he just wants his clothes to be extremely attractive, and appropriate without being old. If you look through his collection, he has a signature: beautiful clothes," says Wintour. "He's very aware of what he stands for and what women look to him for."

De la Renta says he's wanted to enter the moderate market for some time, but believed it was important not just to slap his name on a label.

Fragrance was his first introduction to this aspirational customer, and last year he signed the licensing agreement with apparel-maker Kellwood that gives de la Renta creative control of the line.

"I wanted this, I wanted to do this, but my work is me, and it has to be right," he says.

Of course, with more affordable prices - most pieces cost less than $100 - de la Renta has sacrificed mink in favor of faux fur, but the wine-colored boucle jacket and satin ruffled skirt otherwise have the signature of de la Renta.

"We're dealing with sophisticated customers. What's most important to these women is individuality. I have to create things she'll want to wear, no matter who she is," he explains.

De la Renta's wood desk is imposing and without clutter, and his office is decorated with mid-19th-century engravings. One wall holds a floor-to-ceiling bookcase that holds coffee-table books about fashion, art, gardening, and a copy of A Beautiful Mind.

"The most engaging thing about Oscar is that he's open to new ideas, new people, young people. ... He's a complete Renaissance man," says Wintour.

"Unlike some designers who, when they reach a certain point, tend to close themselves off and live in an ivory tower, he (Oscar) embraces the world. It's his interest in the world that is one of the secrets of his success. The other is that he's a very talented and aware designer," Wintour says.

Gardening, in particular, is a passion of de la Renta's.

"It's how I relax. It's another form of creating and playing with color," he says.

But de la Renta's gardening habit is extreme - a borderline obsession. Earlier this year he hopped on a plane to his native Dominican Republic when the gardener at his home there phoned to say a rare plant from the Philippines that de la Renta had put in the ground two years ago finally had its first bloom.

In a nod to his love for exotic plants, the new Rosamor perfume is a woody floral with mandarin, rose, gardenia and vanilla, mimicking island flowers at night.

The other love in de la Renta's life, aside from his family, is music, especially classical music and opera.

Latin superstar

De la Renta left the Dominican Republic at 18 to pursue painting in Spain, and that's where he first became interested in fashion. After an apprenticeship with Cristobal Balenciaga, he moved to France to work for Lanvin.

His Hispanic background is evident in his designs, though de la Renta says it's a subconscious influence. "I like light, color, luminosity. I like things full of color and vibrant," he says.

"You totally see the Latino in him - in everything he does," says Wintour. "He's proud of his ... heritage. When you're in the Dominican with Oscar, it's like traveling with the president. He's a superstar."

Indeed, there is a hint of Latino bravado when de la Renta talks about dancing: "Of course I dance. Every Latino knows how to dance, but my wife hates to dance so I never dance here (in the United States). I only dance in the Dominican."

At 72, de la Renta certainly is part of fashion's old guard and he recently turned over the CEO title of his company to his son-in-law. De la Renta, however, retains the title of chairman. De la Renta says both his interest and success in fashion endure because he keeps his eyes open - and on - women, who are always changing and demanding more.

"Now is the most exciting time in fashion. Women are controlling their destiny now, the consumer is more knowledgeable, and I have to be better every single day."