The women in charge - Aimee, Beth, Cynthia and Joan Guttman - practiced for years with a wonderful cook, their late mother-in-law, Florence Guttman.

Beth Guttman of Indian Hill laughs with her sister-in-law's Laurie Acklen and Amy Guttman. (Enquirer photo/BRANDI STAFFORD)

Rosh Hashana, which starts after sundown today, is the beginning of the Jewish New Year. During their meal, the Guttmans will reflect on the passing of the old and celebrate the beginning of the new - and remember the beautiful smile and generous spirit of Florence, who died at age 68 in 2002.

Everyone loved the woman they called "Mom." Even though their mothers taught them to prepare Jewish holiday dishes, the Guttman daughters-in-law, who are now as close as sisters, quickly learned Florence had her own ways and recipes for making the most tender brisket and lightest meringue cookies she called "Unbeatables."

"She was definitely in charge in the kitchen," says Beth. "But Mom always made it (cooking) fun."

Before they married a Guttman (Cynthia married Harold; Beth married Louis; Aimee married Ian; and Joan married Steve), the women certainly knew about their mother-in-law's cooking prowess.

"We all had a favorite cookie before we got married," Cynthia says with a laugh.

Even their mothers deferred to her expertise.

"I remember calling my mother with a cooking question once," says Aimee, " and she just said: That's a Florence question."

The Guttmans cooked days in advance for Rosh Hashana. Florence kept detailed notes on each meal - how many guests, what she served and how much food was left over (usually not much) - to help her prepare for the next year's holiday meal. Florence's daughter, Laurie Acklen, who will serve Rosh Hashana lunch to 150 family members and friends Thursday, still has her mother's handwritten observations bound in a notebook.

Florence was such a good cook, even her rare failures turned out tasty. One year, she left a pot of green beans on the stove too long, but her family liked the beans' salty flavor and chewy texture. So tonight, Beth will again prepare Flo's "Burnt Beans." She'll also serve Flo's crisp, garlicky cucumber pickles and tart watermelon pickles. Beth put the colorful pickles up in jars this summer - just as Florence taught her.

As other years, the rest of the Rosh Hashana menu will be much the same. But of course, the Guttmans' holiday table will never be the same without Florence's smile.

Rosh Hashana recipes

The new Joan Nathan's Jewish Holiday Cookbook (Schocken; $29.95) combines revised recipes from the award-winning author's other cookbooks, plus new recipes from Nathan's syndicated television show. For Rosh Hashana, she offers 400 Year-Old Challah, German Potato Salad, Apple Streusel and other dishes.

• Guttman family's Rosh Hashana recipes