A few years ago I did that with hummus, which had become one of my culinary staples ever since I was introduced to it 20 years ago.

I graduated from boxed mixes to the grocery store tubs of garlicky pate to finally making my own.

But though I loved the creamy goodness of chickpeas mashed with tahini, I often was disappointed by raw or bitter aftertastes.

I experimented and ended up with a fantastic hummus that replaced tahini with cashew butter and garlic with the sharper bite of pepper sauce.

It was a winner, and I hadn't tinkered with the recipe since.

But food is supposed to change as our tastes mature and evolve. I was stuck in a cashew-hot pepper-hummus rut.

I wanted a hummus that was more rustic, something chunkier. Something less fattening would be welcome, too. Eight tablespoons of cashew nut butter is far over the top.

First, the beans. Those could stay the same - a standard can of chickpeas. Some people suggest rinsing them briefly to remove excess sodium, but I just adjust my added salt later.

Next, the acid. Most hummus calls for lemon juice or vinegar to balance the fat. Fine, but predictable. Plus, I wanted something that could stand up and be noticed on the tongue. Lime juice won out.

Speaking of fat, I decided to return to sesame seeds (from which tahini is made). To avoid the raw taste, I lightly toasted them, then pulverized them. No more raw taste, plus they were chunky.

For once, the garlic could stay. My real motivation for eliminating it a few years ago (when I was single) was that it can spoil one's breath. Having successfully wooed my wife, I decided to bring it on.

Finally, a sweet touch. I went with a bit of honey.

The result? A pleasantly chunky hummus that is rich, savory and just a hint sweet.

Rustic Hummus

1/2 cup sesame seeds

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional for serving

15-ounce can chickpeas, drained

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon lime juice

2 cloves garlic

11/2 tablespoons honey

Paprika (for garnish)

Heat a heavy skillet over a medium flame. Add the sesame seeds and toast, stirring constantly, until just lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Transfer the seeds to the bowl of a food processor.

Add the oil and pulse until the seeds are coarsely chopped. Add all remaining ingredients except the paprika and pulse until hummus is well combined but still slightly chunky.

Transfer hummus to a bowl. If serving immediately, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with paprika. Otherwise, tightly cover the hummus with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Before serving refrigerated hummus, allow it to come to room temperature, then stir and garnish. Makes about 2 cups.